For the seventh year in a row, I had the pleasure of attending Paul Costelloe’s London Fashion Week show, a tradition that never ceases to amaze me. This year, the legendary designer once again delivered an awe-inspiring collection, seamlessly blending heritage with innovation. A heartfelt thank you to Trace Publicity and Rob Davis for always including me in this remarkable experience.
Paul Costelloe, at the age of 79, continues to reign as a stalwart in the world of fashion, proving that timeless elegance and artisanal craftsmanship never go out of style. Born in Dublin in 1945, his journey in fashion began in the prestigious ateliers of New York, Milan, and Paris, where he refined his technical expertise and artistic vision. In 1979, he returned to Ireland and established his eponymous brand, which has since become synonymous with refined tailoring, intricate detailing, and luxurious fabrics. His influence extends beyond the runway, having dressed royals, celebrities, and discerning clientele worldwide.
For Autumn/Winter 2025, Costelloe introduced his latest collection under the label Paul Costelloe Dressage, an homage to his lifelong passion for equestrian excellence. The collection masterfully encapsulates the strength, fluidity, and discipline of dressage through impeccable tailoring and voluminous silhouettes. Costelloe’s signature craftsmanship was on full display, with opulent fabrics sourced from Magees of Ireland and Harris of Scotland, lending depth and texture to the pieces.
The colour palette was a striking tribute to the rich hues of autumn: deep chestnut browns, warm amber yellows, elegant winter creams, bold berry reds, and dramatic midnight blacks. True to form, prints played a pivotal role, with the in-house design team crafting a bespoke narrative print that beautifully depicted the modern equestrian world.
Texture was a key highlight, with traditional Irish knitwear and wool hosiery adding layers of warmth and sophistication. In an exquisite collaboration with jeweller P.K Bijoux, Costelloe introduced a range of complementary statement pieces that elevated the overall aesthetic, blending glamour with the raw beauty of equestrian sport.
Accessories were equally compelling, with Paul Costelloe Bags and Accessories unveiling a collection of Dressage-inspired leather goods. From iconic saddle bags with intricate hardware to full-waisted belts and classic riding gloves, every piece embodied a harmonious balance of tradition and contemporary design, reinforcing Costelloe’s reputation for timeless luxury.
As always, Costelloe’s mastery in sculptural tailoring was evident. The coats and dresses possessed an architectural elegance, with structured shoulders, flowing hemlines, and dramatic layering creating an effortlessly regal look. His painterly eye was reflected in every detail, turning fabric into a canvas of movement and expression.
Since his first London Fashion Week debut, Costelloe has remained a pillar of British and Irish fashion, his legacy firmly etched into the industry’s history. His ability to evolve while staying true to his roots is a testament to his enduring talent and artistic integrity.
In a world where fast fashion often overshadows craftsmanship, Paul Costelloe continues to remind us of the power of heritage, artistry, and storytelling in design. His Autumn/Winter 2025 collection was not just a display of impeccable tailoring—it was an ode to elegance, strength, and timeless sophistication.
"Keep the home fires burning and continue to dream." - Paul Costelloe
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